The pump keeps kicking off every 24 hours and I turn it back on by hitting filter. Hi Vandee, By default the selector plug is in the 230V position, but in rare cases like yours, it may come mis-aligned or mis-attached from the factory, and need to be shifted. Don, melted shrouds can indicate that the something may be laying on the burner tray, causing flames to shoot out a little sideways, or something is laying on (or clogging) the heat exchanger, allowing hot gas to build up inside the heater, slowing down the exhaust rate. An overheating motor can be caused by bad air flow, broken internal fan, or often the death sentence of a short in the windings. Could be insects or the copper arms are bent, or something caught up in the works, This is usually directly in the center of the motor a centrifugal switch, steel with side springs, and a triangular shaped switch attached at 6 oclock, but contacting the cent. If it is a 15amp breaker, but the pump wants 9amps and the aquatrol wants 7 amps, (for example, made-up numbers) thats a total of 16amps, too much. Yes, pool heaters do have a minimum flow requirement. the tubes are sealed at the end by the two seal plates. Next, check continuity from lead to lead. Once I get it going, it works fine for as long as I leave it on. The mechanical shaft seal sits behind the impeller, and prevent water from leaking out along the motor shaft. (GFI 240V 20amp) the motor makes humming sound but nothing happened, then the motor became burning hot. When the pressure rises 7-9 psi above the clean, start-up pressure, that indicates that its time to backwash or clean the filter. What should I do? The correct replacement would be the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE. Alternatively, you can spin the shaft at the rear motor, with a 7/16 wrench inserted behind the stationary switch, on the slotted end of the motor shaft. My salt was tested today at 3000 and everything else was perfect. Probably not a pump or motor problem (but could be). Running at low rpm seems to be fine. We would like to show you a description here but the site wont allow us. To break the rust, you spin the shaft, or impeller. The previous owners winterized the pump and pool but left all the water in the pool so its full and nasty. We have a c48l2n134b3 pump. I replaced the capacitor last year. Not sure what type of sweeper you have, but other adjustments can sometimes be made to prevent circling, but often it is a low flow issue. Please consider. Note: Antimicrobial properties are built in to the blue filter media to inhibit the growth of bacteria that may affect this product. The pilot lights, but when I try to jump test the gas valve it clicks and snuffs out the pilot light. If you have a visible motor shaft, just behind the impeller, common on older pumps or booster pumps, you can just grab it with straight pliers and turn it back and forth. Hayward Pool Products, We are here to help with all of your Have a Hayward variable that was replaced last year. Pushing down on the handle briefly (pump off) can often dislodge the debris, and no gasket replacement is necessary if you are lucky. Corrosion inside the plug or socket. Mark, if you can hear the motor winding up and down, then it could be the cord. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the seal plate to the pump housing Automatic reset is immediate when the switch opens. If it sounds loud and grumbly, that can be a sign of cavitation, being starved for water, from not enough water being supplied (it wants more). If it is still making chlorine and no real faults are flashing on the control, I wouldnt be too worried about it. The early revisions dont work with the TCELL5 or TCELL9. Would this make the breaker flip? The best way to attack this is with the mantra the problem lies where the power dies. i have a 4 wire set up, ground, line , low speed,high , just want to make sure i wire correctly, 1- line 1, 2- high speed, 3or4 to low speed? Could this be an issue with my pump? Did we just ruin our pump?? The Filter Design Flow Rate is usually printed on the label, or can be found online. Hayward Aqua Rite Error Code Guide - INYOPools.com - DIY Resources Motor was only humming. Open the door and inspect for debris with a mirror and flashlight. Hi Jeanna, most of those slide from 230 to 115, but some do have to be unplugged and replugged. Heat exchanger has to be getting too hot? Hi Sal, for the pump lid, it may help to close the incoming and outgoing valves, and open the filter air bleeder, to release the suction. We just verified all our time settings. Is the wire size correct? "width": "611",
You can check power in, on the incoming wires, and power out (with timer ON), on the outgoing wires that go to the motor. Clear all debris from the heatsink (page 36) on the bottom of the drive. A jammed impeller or blown capacitor can lead to a tripped breaker. Then timer 2 comes on at 3:30 at 2250 rpms, but recently (last 3 mornings) when the second timer at the higher rpms comes on it does not prime and just runs without circulation water through the system. Hi, my Hayward pump is about 5 years old. Fitness View More. Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. Hmmm, not too sure about this question Jay, there must be some explanation. Thanks, Jim, if the motor is reversible it will have a Hi Voltage / Lo Voltage diagram printed on the label, and a means to switch it to 115V. Hi Phil, hmmm, could be a breaker that is going bad they tend to wear out after 20 years or so, especially if they are used often, as a switch. Get Mountainside Fitness reviews, ratings, business hours, phone numbers, and directions. Gasket Maker. What you want is the owners manual for the heater. Hi, I have a Hayword pump and when I turn the pump on I have water coming out the bottom of the pump in the back, and trips the GFI OUTLET, could this be a bad seal? I backflushed the filter and pump would loose almost all water in basket. Pool Heaters have a thermostat, and just like a house heater, they turn themselves on/off to maintain a temperature. Returns are getting good supply, the gauge on filter is bouncing up and down. What do you think is the problem? Possibly a bad breaker, they do wear out after 20 yrs or so. It actually burned up shortly after my arrival and troubleshooting it. Terrible storms 2 nights ago. Dont feel that resistance when bumping. I have a Hayward 1.65 variable speed pump it is on a timer for high and low. It could also be that the power cord is not rated for 15 amps, which is the likely size of the breaker for the outlet (but check the breaker amp size). Increased flow this year may be from the new sand, and higher flow makes it easier for air leaks to appear. It was only 3 years old. Another check to do is to place the multiport valve on recirculate, which bypasses the filter, and will let you know for sure that the problem is in the filter sand. It runs fine but no strong circulation. I have digital timer with pump wire going into termials that are screwed down. If you have found a burnt spot or something broken on the circuit board, that is a likely power killing area. *If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. IF the motor is turning over or starting, but no water pumps, it is usually an air leak from a loose pipe coming into the pump, or a loose pump lid. If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm. As you found, if the motor sounds just as loud when it is pulled out or removed from the pump housing its usually the bearings, which normally last for up to 10 years, not in this case it seems. If valve is open when it should be closed the heater will shut down and go into lockout. News Reporter Reveals On Live TV That Shes Been Secretly Recording . https://www.afternic.com/forsale/haywarddocs.info?utm_source=TDFS&utm_medium=sn_affiliate_click&utm_campaign=TDFS_GoDaddy_DLS&traffic_type=TDFS&traffic_id=GoDaddy_DLS the sound may possibly be a problem with the internal bypass, located in the front header. When I turn on the pump, it sucks water through but only 2/3 of basket is filled as if a suction leak. Hi Damon, I would suspect the chattering sound to be a loose stationary switch and/or centrifugal switch on the motor, in the rear of the motor, remove the cover and look for something amiss. What is the incoming voltage on a H-150 pool/spa heater ? I would suggest replacing the pump with the same exact pump, which is matched to your filter size presumably. {
Got a new motor, it made humming noise since day on,if i help it spin it works so I changed the capacitor and still the same, humming and if I help it to spin it goes fine, any suggestions? We recently noticed the plug and cord are getting hot and the rubber is beginning to melt. A large pair of channel type pliers can be placed on the impeller, over a cloth, and given some persuasion. Missing air bleeder sock or strainer cap Lighting, Learn About Do you have any advice? "@type": "Organization",
What possibly is happening, is that air is being sucked in, possibly from low water level or a stuck skimmer weir, or an air leak in front of the pump (before the pump). Also keep in mind that 1 lb of DE powder is not 16 oz of kitchen dry measure, but actually 32 oz (4 cups) of kitchen measure, because DE is so light and fluffy The normal unit of measure for 1 lb of DE powder is a 1 lb coffee can (or 4 8 oz cups). I have a Hayward H250, when I turn it on the green heat light is lit and the heater seems to make a howling sound. The symptoms you describe could be shorted windings, or it could also be just a bad capacitor, or it could be a motor that is locked up, from small amounts of rust inside which is often the case for motors that have sat all winter long. IF thats good, check the pipe coming into the pump, does it drip when the pump is off? What can be the cause? "contentUrl": "https://x1.adis.ws/v1/media/graphics/i/lesl/its-logo-wide",
New pump probably not a shaft seal problem, just loose clamp band or volute bolts. I owe you a beer if you are ever around my neck of the woods. ), hard to tell until the pump can be tested. i have a hayward 240 super pump, which have had for about 10 years. Third guess would be that the connections were not tight on the new motor. If it makes no noise at all, check that the GFCI test button is not tripped, and flip the circuit breaker off and back on. Hi Toula, consider that the impeller may be clogged, or you may have an air leak, in front of the impeller. Hi Tony, yes if the impeller spins freely then the shaft does too (unless you are unthreading the impeller from a stationary shaft) normally. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and youre definitely not alone. I dont want to over tighten it. I just purchased a new pump and installed it but once all the hoses are connected even with the pump off the pump is leaking from the strainer housing. This code will display if 120V polarity is reversed, low voltage is detected, or if the ground path is not sufficient. ), to see if air is drawing in around the fitting. Am I doing something simply stupid, or should I call the pool people tomorrow? Hi There I have a Hayward Super Pump VS pump. I have a thermal switch on it,thank goodness or the motor would probably be fried. Hard for me to say if the motor is shot, but it has sure had a rough life! Finally, it could be making the noise at the burner orifice, if one or more is not fully spewing gas, or is not ignited like the rest. If error occurs 10 times during a call for heat the control will go into lockout. Or switch to Pentair, but I wouldnt say theyre better your case is unusual, the pump may have been dropped, suffered some hard knock from a tree branch, or perhaps it had a defective bearing to begin with. I was going to try one of those next, as it seems impossible to keep water in the line without it draining into the pool. I added new wire and plug end but when I plug it in it trips the breaker. YOu can shim under a piece of rubber, or carpet, or cardboard which wont last long, but anything between the pump and the pad should quiet the pump, and take up space to prevent the vibration. I have a Hayward sp 2603 vsp pump which is a year old has been working fine but 2 days ago I turned it on it ran about 1 minute, it cut off and on the display it says error code 11 and it will not run. The ampage to the pump has been the same since we got the pump 7 years ago and never had this issue before. It spins easily by hand and doesnt make any noise. Has worked fine until today. Cant find anything that jumps right out. Connect the hose from the pump to PUMP, the wall return pipe to RETURN, and the backwash hose connects to the WASTE port, with the use of a hose adapter and clamp. vacuum on waste last night. Either way, when a DE filter clogs up quickly, it is either not enough DE powder being used, or the grids (flex tubes for Perflex) are clogged with mineral scale or oily deposits. If symptoms continues with the filter on recirculate, you would have different problems, like restriction or obstruction in the pipes. I have a Hayward pump and filter system for my outdoor water feature. if one of the clips or orings is missing, that is another cause of passing DE into the pool. Good luck! I replaced the o-ring and it still leaks out the same spot. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area. All We would like to show you a description here but the site wont allow us. The issue continue to happen so I called a pool repair technician and he came out and verified that the filter was put together properly and also replaced the O-rings in the backwash valve. Dont let pool pump problems drive you crazy! Also check other possible pressure side problems, like a closed or broken exit valve on the filter, or other restrictions further down the line, up to the pool return fittings. How To Fix The Problem Hi Mike, its hard to say not knowing which control system you use. Thanks. "@type": "Person",
When the pump comes on a massive amount of bubbles comes out of the return line in the bottom of the pool. Make sure it is fully pushed into the panel, and the wires are tightly connected, which they likely are. Happens all the time to pool pumps, and the way to un-stick it is to do some disassembly in the rear of the motor, to get a wrench on the slotted rear of the motor shaft, and work the shaft back and forth for a minute, to break the rust seal, and get the shaft to turn again. It has been operating properly in its current setup for atleast 2 years (came with house). Check that the shaft spins properly, and recheck all wiring. The post-purge cycle will be completed once the blower prover switch closes. Air could also be entering the pump from the threaded pipe or union that is attached to the inlet port, which may also spray or drip when the pump shuts off. We are a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is funded by user donations. Hi, make sure that the switches are not loose, the centrifugal switch on the end of the shaft and the Stationary switch at 6 oclock. 3. Humming Motor: If the pump motor makes a humming sound when starting up, you likely have a clogged impeller.